I collected photos for at least another 6 blog posts on Tel Aviv, but we were so busy with the Bat Mitzvah prep, that I never got to blog them out. Rather than getting "blogged" down in the past, I will do a single panoply of highlights of our neighborhood in Tel Aviv.
We have a unique relationship to Tel Aviv—which is like our second home. Every year we spend several weeks with Irad's family and in 2008-2009 we spent an entire year there, with the kids in Israeli schools: 2nd grade, 4th grade and 10th grade. Because we knew we were only there for a year, we took that year on steroids, trying to absorb and explore as much as possible. We bring to our visits a mixture of gung-ho see-all tourist energy, and some of the knowledge collected as "locals" for a year.
Now on our return visits, there is a rich pay-off, as we visit with not just family, but the friends we made during that year (the boys take off with their buddies the second we arrive). Our neighborhood in Tel Aviv is so rich, it is like five vacation spots in one...
Starting with the Mediterranean:
vasty beaches
watching Irad swim (first day was COLD!)
views of Jaffo
Reading on the rocks
surf's up!
crazy gorgeous sunsets every night!
One of our favorite rituals is to go down to Tzfoni Beach at the foot of our street, where you can order hot chocolate and sit right on the sand, watching the sunset.
Then there is the Carmel market, which is practically at our doorstep, and exemplifies the bounty of the land. It is almost over stimulation!
walking down the market
flowers
halvah (sesame paste sweet—out of this world)
peppers and tomatoes
spices
Countertop Asian-fusion + Former New York chef comes home. Some of the dishes we sampled there: coconut curry, bun sandwiches, tofu curry and udon noodles:
The countertop allows you to watch your food prepped.
And share a coke with a friend.
We are a great fan of their stuffed vegetables.
And this is the only place I have ever had a stuffed beet. Absolutely delicious!
Great desserts as well,
and a vegetarian cholent on Saturdays (Shabbat.)
Not in our neighborhood but nonetheless a family favorite and worth mentioning, Rupi 24, an Indian restaurant that is literally a hole in the wall. You walk to a completely neglected part of Tel Aviv, enter a non-descript door at Schocken 14, climb the stairs and find yourself in a lovely, comfortable Indian place—run by Israelis who have a serious India fixation. Whatever the kitchen is making, that is the selection of the day.
One doesn't know what an art form baklava is without visiting an Arab baklava store. I have done so in Cairo, in Akko and in Yaffo, and there is nothing like it for feeling the winds of the silk road caravan breezing through your modern hair-cut.
Especially delightful are the trays of kanafe, sweet cheese covered with baklava kadaif and smothered in honey and rose water syrup. These are always set out around lunch time for people to buy a single portion.
We have a unique relationship to Tel Aviv—which is like our second home. Every year we spend several weeks with Irad's family and in 2008-2009 we spent an entire year there, with the kids in Israeli schools: 2nd grade, 4th grade and 10th grade. Because we knew we were only there for a year, we took that year on steroids, trying to absorb and explore as much as possible. We bring to our visits a mixture of gung-ho see-all tourist energy, and some of the knowledge collected as "locals" for a year.
Now on our return visits, there is a rich pay-off, as we visit with not just family, but the friends we made during that year (the boys take off with their buddies the second we arrive). Our neighborhood in Tel Aviv is so rich, it is like five vacation spots in one...
Starting with the Mediterranean:
vasty beaches
swimming for the fearless (that is Irad)
watching Irad swim (first day was COLD!)
views of Jaffo
views back from Jaffo
Reading on the rocks
picturesque sailboats
surf's up!
crazy gorgeous sunsets every night!
One of our favorite rituals is to go down to Tzfoni Beach at the foot of our street, where you can order hot chocolate and sit right on the sand, watching the sunset.
Then there is the Carmel market, which is practically at our doorstep, and exemplifies the bounty of the land. It is almost over stimulation!
walking down the market
dried fruits
legumes
olives
peppers and tomatoes
persimmons, apples, pomegranates
spices
and turkish delight!
Other favorite food hang-outs in our immediate neighborhood:
at Felafel Benin Johnny, 3 Tchernikovsky
We think Benin Johnny is the best felafel in Tel Aviv. It has been there for over 50 years in the same family, and you can always count on a friendly greeting and a joke. The kids run over there for late breakfast and never tire of it. Sit on the counter or on benches outside on the street. Classic Israeli street food.
And the other classic street food, lesser known, but its advocates will fight to death for its honor, sabich. An eggplant based pita sandwich with many variables and options, however, as the sign in the shop says, there is no sabich without eggplant.
Our sabich place is two doors down from Felafel Benin, and I will swear it is the best in Tel Aviv, just to solve all the disputes that are ongoing in that city. Heck, even Anthony Bourdain has been spotted there.
stand at the counter and tell the man what you want: chips, salads, schug, onions, sauces, hard boiled egg and potato slices. Eggplant non-negotiable.
It takes 5 minutes to carefully craft the finished product. When there are 6 people in line ahead of you (as there usually are) that means a significant wait. Doesn't stop anyone, there is always a line. The layers must be done in a specific order and the pita handled tenderly in order to fulfill its maximum capacity.
The finished product is beautiful to behold. My son Amnon has spent considerable time in the kitchen trying to recreate this masterpiece, and we have even imported the special sauce: Amba, (sanskrit for mango).
The first thing Amnon does when he arrives in Tel Aviv is get one of these sandwiches to bite into. He is also responsible for seriously addicting many of his friends. Once I went to Tel Aviv for 3 days (for a singing gig) and the last thing I did was buy him a sabich and pack it to bring home. The next day he ate in Cleveland. Not quite...but better than nothing!
Down the street from us, at the entrance to the Carmel Market (shuk) is The Bun.
Countertop Asian-fusion + Former New York chef comes home. Some of the dishes we sampled there: coconut curry, bun sandwiches, tofu curry and udon noodles:
The countertop allows you to watch your food prepped.
And share a coke with a friend.
Fat Rabbit enjoying a bottle of coke.
Another family favorite which is neither a counter top or a fast food place, is the Mitbachon, 18 Rabbi Akiva, a lovely, comfy restaurant that sits at the edge of the Shuk at the start of the Yemenite Quarter and makes delicious really-as-if home-cooked meals.
We are a great fan of their stuffed vegetables.
And this is the only place I have ever had a stuffed beet. Absolutely delicious!
Great desserts as well,
best chocolate cake ever eaten in a restaurant
and a vegetarian cholent on Saturdays (Shabbat.)
Not in our neighborhood but nonetheless a family favorite and worth mentioning, Rupi 24, an Indian restaurant that is literally a hole in the wall. You walk to a completely neglected part of Tel Aviv, enter a non-descript door at Schocken 14, climb the stairs and find yourself in a lovely, comfortable Indian place—run by Israelis who have a serious India fixation. Whatever the kitchen is making, that is the selection of the day.
the kitchen
the day's selection
seating is on cushions on the floor
the cuddle quotient
And for anyone who is still slogging along on this endless blog post, I have one more sweet tip to share with you. Go to Jaffa (Yaffo) for baklava. Abuelafia at 7 Yefet Street.
Especially delightful are the trays of kanafe, sweet cheese covered with baklava kadaif and smothered in honey and rose water syrup. These are always set out around lunch time for people to buy a single portion.
tray of kanafe
And that is the end of my blogging on this trip to Tel Aviv. It was good to the last bite!
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